Episode 019: Investing in Future Proof Lenses.

May 17, 2011

in Gear,Lenses,Nikon,Podcast Episodes,Tutorials

As more camera manufacturers develop larger sensor cameras, camera mounts, and lens systems I believe its wise to consider what mount type you invest in. I explain my plan in this episode.

Show Notes:


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QuickTime File: DSLR Video Shooter Episode #019

  • http://www.learningdslrvideo.com Dugdale

    That was one of the sharpest videos I think I have seen you do, did you change in camera sharpness or as sharpening in post?

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    Haha well to be honest… I set a marker on the floor for myself so I am in focus. And secondly, I just got my 3rd Tokina lens (what this was shot on) its a really sharp lens, totally in love with it (28-70mm F2.8).

    The other reason it looks sharper is because I shot it much wider than I usually do (28mm I think) Usually I am at +50mm and at F2 or so for depth.

    Don’t get me wrong, for podcasts I’m cool with a sharper image. Just keep that stuff out of narrative.

  • philhoyt

     WHY HAS NO ONE TOLD ME THIS BEFORE!!!! Any recommendations in Nikon Lens? They sorta confuse me.

  • Martin Calvi

    Is it right that lenses for full frame Canon DSLRs are more expensive than lenses for cropped sensor Canon DSLRs?

  • Joshpalansky

         Hey Caleb
         I watched your video on using FD lenses on DSLR. You sold me immediately on this idea. Finally I could buy lenses without having to decided between new glass or groceries in the fridge. However, your latest video; future proof lenses has me confused. Here are a few questions I have.
    1) If I buy used FD glass for my Canon Dslr (XT), do I have the ability to change the aperture when the lens is screwed into the mount?
    OR
    2) Are nikon film lenses the only lenses I can change the aperture while being connected to a DSLR?
    AND
    3)Do you need an adapter to use Nikon film lenses on a Nikon DSLR? If so, is there an extra crop factor in addition to the 1.6 crop of a DX DSLR?
         The third question is most important to me because I would switch to a Nikon DSLR if it means you don’t have extra crop as you do using an FD adapter on an Eos Body. Thanks for your time buckaroo.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    In some cases. But not always.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    You can slowly work toward a Nikon prime set from here: http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-35mm/system-Nikon-Manual-Focus/category-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses?s=1&bcode=NK&ccode=6&cc=55957&r=WG&f

    You can get the Non AI lenses for crazy cheap (50mm 1.4 is like 80 bucks). I get the BGN (bargin) ones, so far there in great condition.

    Also check out older nikon zooms. I have a 35-70mm F3.5 Macro for $90, or save for the newer ones. Also Tokinas ROCK. I have a 24-70mm F2.8 and a 20-35mm F2.8, I got both for 700 on ebay. Love em ta death.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    1. I believe all FD lenses have manual aperture which is awesome. Another thing to note is that FDs will work really well on Micro 4/3rds cameras (GH2, AF100, GF2 etc.) without a crop.

    2. No. There are TONS of different lens types that have M aperture. Of all the different types, the F mount (nikon lenses) works with the largest range of cameras. Now that said, there are several lens brands that make lenses for the F-Mount. So you’ll notice that I used a Tokina lens with a nikon mount.

    3. No! Nikons F-mount has not changed mechanically in forever. So you can put a 1960′s lens a any nikon with an F-mount (all their SLRs).

    You do not need an adapter to use Manual Nikons on Nikon DSLRs.

    STOP! Don’t buy a Nikon DSLR! First off there is no crop factor for Nikon Lenses on Canon cameras so its not like the FDs in that regard.
    Secondly, Nikon doesn’t really have good video specs like the canons.

    If you have any other questions shoot me an email (dslrvideoshooter@gmail.com) and I can get you my cell or skype number. I know this is a lot to take in!

  • Joshpalansky

    Woah. I’m super impressed with how fast you answered my question and the depth of your answer. I know it sounds lame and like you paid me to say this but I’m a firm believer in supporting those who are awesome. I know with Ken Rockwell he gets some sort of percentage every time someone buys an item through a link off his website. Do you have something similar because I’ll remember to keep you in mind?

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    No problem. I love my viewers. Ya’ll are great. If you’re interested, I do have a donation page you can find here: http://dslrvideoshooter.com/about/support/

    Thanks again.

  • Paul

    I had always considered buying the Nikon lenses, but the focus rings go backwards from Canon and other lenses which drives me nuts.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    While that sounds like a pain, I’ve found it to be better than Canon’s. Because now my follow focus goes forward for infinity and backwards for close focus. Canon is technically backwards in this regard.

  • Austin

    Not sure if this was suggestions for video shooting only or for FILM and video.  I was told to invest in some Zeiss glass.  Opinions? Suggestions?

  • philhoyt

    Very cool. Any adapter you recommend?

  • http://www.learningdslrvideo.com Dugdale

    Thanks for letting me know, I guess my eyes are getting better at noticing this stuff.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    Opinion:
    Expensive and awesome.

    Suggestion:
    Go here: http://www.keh.com, buy manual nikon primes. You can find really great prices on em there.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    Thanks!

    One with focus confirmation:
    http://tinyurl.com/4yfv9ga

    Standard adapter:
    http://tinyurl.com/4xexook

  • Marc

    Im definitely going to invest in some tokinas! Are they all manual aperture? Im looking at the 16-50 and I don’t see anything about it having manual aperture. Any advice?

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    Sadly, not all lenses have manual aperture. Most modern ones don’t.

  • http://twitter.com/Vasarino Alessio Vasarin

    Hi, I was just thinking about buy the new Samyang 35mm 1.4, that has manual focus/manual iris aperture. Do you recommend to buy the nikon mount version? or maybe an old nikon 35mm is better and cheaper?

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    I would buy the Nikon mount for the same reason I recommend other nikon lenses; they are future proof.

    I think a new Samyang is the same price as an old nikkor 35 F1.4. So I would go for the Samyang although I have not used one, they look pretty awesome!

  • http://twitter.com/Vasarino Alessio Vasarin

    Finally I decided to invest in some old Contax/Zeiss primes. There’s the manual iris aperture, with an adapter you can use it with a lot of cameras, the lenses are zeiss(that means quality – and I hope not just for me :D ) and you can find them at an affordable price (maybe the nikon primes are a bit cheaper, I think). 

  • donamor1

    Hi Caleb, I am so happy to be browsing your amazing videos and information- You rock. I am new to the world of DSLRs and have been trying to decide on a camera.
    I’ve learned so much and feel more excited after watching your video on the F mount lenses. I’d love your opinion but i’m thinking of buying the Canon 7D today as a discount seems to end today and i’ve been really busy researching this.  I have two lenses that seem to be very nice . They both have the aperture rings on them and i wanted to get your input on the lenses as i know very little about them and what i would need and how they might work with the 7D. I have these on an old Finepix S1Pro and i know camera is old but wanted to be able to maybe save on the lenses. -i’m very interested in video- 
    (Tamron AF Aspherical XR (LD)[IF] 28-300mm 1:3.5-6.3 Macro ) 
    (Tamron SP AF Aspherical (LD)[IF] 17-35mm 1:2.8-4 )
    My other question is having these two lenses, should i just buy the 7D body or should i buy it with one of the lens kits – if so, any suggestion on which one? I’m really stuck on this- i’m guessing it would be a good idea to get a lens that can use the full functionality of the 7D- like fast focusing, etc. i’d really appreciate your input. I want to also do some photography classes and then really get into making some short films. Thanks again and happy new year.

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    I would not get the kit lens. There pretty slow and often soft. That will save you some money too.

    What I have is just one zoom (28-70), a set of Nikkor primes, and 1 Canon 50mm. I don’t do a ton of photography and when I do, its usually shooting portraitures or long lens work. So for me the 50mm is perfect. I get auto focus an other electronic controls.
    Either of these too would be handy for stills use:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009XVCZ?ie=UTF8&tag=tecbri-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00009XVCZ

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007E7JU?ie=UTF8&tag=tecbri-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00007E7JU

    And if you think about it, the Canon 50mm F1.8 price is about what you would save on the kit lens.

    And according to this your other Finepix S1Pro lenses use the F-mount. So it should work!
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F-mount#Compatible_Cameras

  • donamor1

    Thank you so much – so I think i’m going to go ahead and order my 7D today! I Would I still need one of those adapters for the F-mount Tamrons and are they good video lenses for the 7D you think? I thank you again and I’m looking at the lenses you sugested- I basically want to get the most important lenses since my budget is small and I’m just getting started. I guess I could even start with the lenses I have but would like one lense that covers what they might not including the feaatures. I’m all about looking for some vintage lenses too- i think i saw some recomendations for those too

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com calebpike

    Those should work fine. You might see if you can find a fast zoom lens. Its really a pain to shoot on a lens that does not have a consistent aperture (i.e. F2.8 over a F3.5-5.6). Those non-constent aperture lenses darken the image as you zoom it.
    But if you found a good deal on it, it will still work for you.